I built my printer using 8020 components (10 x 12 inch, 8 x 24 inch, and 4 x 72 inch plus corner brackets, M6 bolts, and T-nuts). There are a few complications, but this is mostly all that is required to run the system. In the case of DLP, one needs only to control the Z stage that lifts and lowers a build platform in to a resin tank, a second motor that tilts the tank to peel away successive layers before the Z stage moves, and a servo that closes a shutter between layers. That in turn requires controlling three linear stages driven by stepper motors and the drive gear of the extruder. It came down to creating a four axis CNC machine. I thought of FDM as being a CNC mill with an extruder instead of a cutting tool. I approached this project the same way I approached FDM.
From a DIY point of view, running a projector seems much easier than setting up a galvo. I can not comment yet on the relative merits of these systems, but I imagine that since high-end professional machines use lasers that the precision of SLA is probably superior. Unlike SLA which uses a galvo controlled laser source, a DLP printer prints entire layers in one shot. Since I have made one mostly successful print, I want to write about my experience and also to encourage and help others who want to give this a try.Ī DLP 3D printer is similar to an SLA printer in that it uses light to cure a photosensitive resin.
CREATION WORKSHOP DLP FULL
Much like building my FDM printers from scratch, I encountered many problems and moments of less than full confidence that I would succeed. Additionally, I use high resolution printing professionally, so I thought it would be beneficial to learn all about DLP and SLA by building a machine myself. The higher resolution of DLP can’t be matched by any FDM printer.
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